101 Dalmatians Disneybound

Hello lovely sewing friends!

I hope the summer is being kind to you and your stashes, and you’re not having to resort to stealing Dalmatian puppies to get material for your projects!

You may have guessed that today post was inspired by 101 Dalmatians.

I saw this beautiful spotty polyester crepe from Minerva Crafts – which appears to be sold out now – and I was immediately inspired by the 1961 Disney film. I got two metres of the spotty fabric, and a metre of red crepe, also from Minerva Crafts.

About the pattern

I wanted a pattern that had some sort of collar, and that was already part of my pattern collection. I was after a pattern that had a silhouette reminiscent of 1940s dresses, and browsing through my magazines I came across Burda Style 105 01/20.

The pattern comes in petite sizes 17-21, and I cut a size 21.

Although the pattern is modern I got a vintage vibe from it, and thought the neckline would resemble a puppy’s collar, so I was sold on it!

Construction

The construction of the pattern was quite simple.

I used the lining as a toile, and the fit was fairly good. I generally have the same issues with my fit – as expected, my body is always the same: I usually have to take off about a centimetre off the shoulder seam, and adjust the armscye depth, and I had to do that for this pattern also.

Most of my previous projects have had kimono sleeves, or no sleeves at all, so I have never had to adjust the sleeve pattern to fit with the above, so I thought I’d gather the sleeve cap, sew it on, and see what happened. I am happy to report that I didn’t need to do any further adjustments to the sleeves, thankfully.

Veredict

Need I say more than what the picture above says for me?

I am in love with this dress! I will definitely be making this pattern again. I will be making a few more alterations to make sure that I get a slightly more fitted look, by taking in the side seams. The print is so busy that this is hardly noticeable in this dress, but the waist seam sits above my natural waistband, so I will make sure to lengthen it as necessary.

I already have a fabric that I am going to use to make a second version of this dress. It’s a lovely floral that I bought to match a 1940s repro hat, so I want to get a dress that has that silhouette. I think I will be adding shoulder pads to get a stronger line.

Let me know what you think about this dress!

See you all next time!

Swing sleeve blouse, take two

Hello my lovely sewing friends!

Remember my swing sleeve blouse? Today I bring the second version of that pattern that I’ve made this year.

I used the same fabric for this blouse as the one for the vintage blouse of my last post.

I actually made the orange blouse as a toile for this fabric, yet I ended up liking the toile better than the final project. Still, it was a very nice project to make and the result is cute.

Have you ever made a wearable toile that you liked better than the project you were trying to see the fit for? Hope I’m not the only one!

See you next time and happy sewing!

Star Wars: Revenge of the Stitch

A long time ago, in a galaxy close to home, a seamstress was learning to sew. The Empire of the Fitting Issues was everywhere on the seamstress’ planet, so her results were not fantastic. Years later, thanks to the Rebel Alliance of the Good Pattern, her planet was freed from the oppression of the Empire, resulting in much better fitting dresses, thus revenging the stitches.

Hello my lovely sewing friends!

My dressmaking goal this year was to achieve a better fit for my bodices. I am an hourglass body shape, with a tiny waist compared to my bust and hips, and while I am happy with my body, it is a nightmare to get a good fit for the clothes I make.

As you may know, when I first started sewing I took a (then) local sewing class in Mallorca, and my sewing teacher helped me create a pencil skirt pattern that fit me perfectly, and I have used that pattern so so much. You can find some of those projects here, here and here, amongst others.

The top part of my body, however, has remained a source of issues in my dressmaking skills. I have, however, been making steady progress in improving the fit, and I now have what I believe to be a good fitting sleeveless bodice. Hurrah!

I originally attempted this dress back in 2018, in the cutest space print. You can see more pictures in my blog post here. I was really happy with how that turned out, but having done a lot more research into pattern drafting in the last two years, I realise that I made so many mistakes (ahem, I added two darts at the waist). I have worn that dress so much in the last two years anyway, but I wanted to see if I could attempt the pattern, but actually make the appropriate alterations to it to get the fit that I wanted.

When I made my second Butterick B6094 I spoke about using the Seams 2 fit method to improve the fit, and I used that method again for this.

While achieving a good fitting bodice is still a work in progress, and there are some things that I would still like to improve, I am so happy with how much I have managed to improve my sewing skills in the last two years!

The skirt portion of this dress is my trusted pencil skirt pattern.

May the Force be with you in your rebellious stitching adventures.

Double feature: asymmetric skirt and blouse

Hello again!

I hope you have all been enjoying the sunshine – perhaps sewing in the garden. I’d love doing that if it weren’t for the number of bumblebees that would inevitably interrupt my sewing.

I have been busy playing Animal Crossing, and I picked up my crochet hook again – more on that later.

When lockdown started I had a few very busy sewing weeks, finishing the last few projects that I posted about: my swing sleeve blouse, retro blouse, and two skirts. I have made a few other items that I haven’t gotten around to blogging just yet.

Today I am here to present not one, but two of the few other items of clothing that I’ve made for myself during this lockdown!

Asymmetric pleated skirt

Following on from my last posts with different versions of my favourite skirt, I altered the pattern following this tutorial by De Costuras y otras cosas. The tutorial is in Spanish, but if you don’t speak Spanish it is thoroughly pictured and the pictures are fairly easy to follow if you have some basic pattern drafting knowledge.

The tutorial shows how to alter a basic pencil skirt pattern to create an asymmetric pleated insert to the front of the skirt. When I first saw it I fell in love with the little skirt pictured and I knew I had to give it a go!

I bought 2m of this polyester suiting fabric at Minerva Crafts, in fuchsia, thinking that it would be a lovely bright colour for the summer. I ended up using about 1.5m of it, if that.

The construction was simple, even though it looks like a more difficult project than it is. The hardest part, as you would expect, was attaching the pleated panel. The rest of the construction was essentially the same as my usual skirt.

My only regret with this skirt is that I stitched through two layers of the last pleat in the side seam, which causes it to make the pleats near the side seam to stay slightly open, but other than that this skirt is an absolute win! So much so that I have a second one ready to be sewn. 10/10

Keyhole Blouse

This year I have been making quite a lot of blouses and I love how quickly they generally come together. The one pictured in these photos is the free keyhole blouse pattern from Vera Venus. If you don’t know them, I would definitely recommend having a look at their website, as they have lots of fantastic patterns, most of them free!

This one is a really easy pattern to follow. I decided to make three keyholes for this version. The pattern has tucks at the waist in the front, and a centre back opening.

I used a fabric that’s been sitting in my stash since the beginning of my sewing journey. I bought it in Teixits es Tren, back home in Mallorca, and it always felt too pretty to cut because I never felt my skills were up to the standard.

This year I decided that it doesn’t matter what skills I have or don’t have, I will not let fear stop me from cutting into nice fabrics! So I did, and I couldn’t be happier! I used a fuchsia bias to bind the neckline, and voila!

The blouse came together really quickly and I really like how it looks! I only used about half of the fabric, so I had some left to make another blouse!

I look forward to showing you my next project!

Purple skirt

Hello!

I am back today with another modification of my favourite skirt pattern.

This one is quite a simple modification, as I overlayed this lovely purple pre-pleated fabric. As per usual, I have no idea what kind of fabric this is – I think I really need to do a little more research into different types of fabrics!

Anyway, here it is in all its glory! It took me a really long time to sew this skirt as my machine kept skipping stitches. I started it probably two years ago, and one of my goals for the year was to finish a number of UFOs.

Back in March I went to The New Craft House’s Sewing Social Weekend, and I got to use one of their machines to finish this off!

What do you think?

Flamenco skirt

Hello lovely people of the internet!

Today’s post is going to be short and sweet.

I have talked about my superstar of a skirt pattern before. I have made so many different versions of this pattern, and now I am starting to have fun with it! I have a few upcoming projects that I have made using this pattern as a base, but modifying it to get different designs, and today I bring the first of them!

Today I am here to bring the most basic design alteration.

When I first cut this fabric, a few years ago now, I used to wear shorter skirts. I then burned a hole in one of the back pieces, because this mysterious fabric is synthetic (mysterious, because I don’t know where it came from), and then the skirt went into my pile of unfinished projects.

Until now! I recut the burnt panel, and I decided that the skirt was too short for me now, so I decided to add a ruffle at the hem.

I have never been much of a ruffle girl, but with the polka dot fabric this skirt brings my Spanish roots out – even though I have never danced flamenco in my life.

Hope you all like it!

Swing sleeve blouse

Hello lovelies!

Today I bring a new blouse. The pattern was published in Sew Now magazine in November 2017, and the pattern is free to download on the website, although the instructions are only printed on the magazine.

About the pattern

The pattern, designed by Julia from Bobbins and Buttons, was published for Sew Now magazine in November 2017. I had liked the pattern since I first bought the magazine, but I never went on to make it.

In January I bought this beautiful flowy floral fabric, that has some printed and some embroidered flowers, and at an amazing price. I wanted to use the fabric as a wearable muslin for a fabric I had bought about 4 years ago when I had first started sewing, but that I never had the courage to cut into.

Following the measurement chart I cut a size 12, and I didn’t make any adjustments to it.

Construction

This pattern was such a simple sew! Even with the trickier, flowy fabric it was a dream to sew.

The pattern features a princess seam, and the sleeves are sandwiched between the central and side panels, to create a beautiful cape-like effect.

The construction was really simple, and from cutting to being completely finished off it took less than a day.

The only thing I might change is the neckline: I really like how it looks with the V neck opening, but it is bound with bias tape and the weight of the bias binding makes it so the neck doesn’t stay up. I think it might be cute if the centre seam was joined all the way, so for a future blouse I may just do that.

Verdict

I LOVE THIS PATTERN!

I cannot stress this enough. It was very easy to make, and the result is amazing.

I did make this one as a wearable muslin, and I liked it so much that I made it again maybe a day after I finished this one, which will be coming to a blog near you very soon!

Retro style blouse: Burda Style 121|10/18

Hello lovely people of the internet!

I have been very busy sewing these last few weeks, and I have actually been getting so much done that I have projects for days! I’m going to have a brand new wardrobe in the next few weeks and I’m very excited about it!

Today I am here to write about the Burda Style 121|10/18 blouse.

About the pattern

This pattern was originally published by Burda Style in December 1958, and the original pattern described the blouse as ‘flirty but modern’. As Burda has turned 70 this year, they have been reprinting some of their original patterns. I got this in the Spanish version of the magazine, printed in October 2010, though the link above takes you to the US website and it can be purchased as a PDF.

Following the measurement guide I cut a size 42, and I had 3 metres of this fabric that I got to make as a wearable muslin. As this was my muslin, I didn’t do any adjustments to the pattern.

Construction

Burda Style magazine rates the difficulty of their patterns, and this pattern is rated as a 3 out of 4 in difficulty. I didn’t think that the construction was all that difficult, although I did find the instructions a little confusing as they are quite brief.

The sleeves are batwing, and the neckties are sewn into the princess seam in the front of the bodice, and a zipper is sewn into the side seam. The pattern calls for a 40 cm invisible zip, though I found that way too long for the side seam.

Verdict

I really like how this blouse turned out – I made this as a wearable muslin – and I have another fabric in mind to make with this pattern. Even though I really like the result of this I may decide to choose a different pattern for that. If I decide to make this pattern again I will scale the waist portion of the pattern; the bust, sleeves and back fit well enough, but the blouse is a little baggy at the waist.

I had never made a Burda Style pattern, but I will certainly be making some more! The pattern is well designed, and although a little confusing, it turned out great!

Every day I’m Hufflin’

Hello lovely people of the internet!

The world is a little mad at the moment, and with the current situation caused by the Covid-19 virus I have been stuck at home. In an effort to keep busy, I have been sewing loads. I actually have finished 6 projects this year already! That is as many as I did all of last year, and it’s only March. By the time we get out of quarantine I will have a brand new wardrobe.

Today, however, I want to write about happier times. There is enough panic and madness in the world, so I am here to bring a little magic to my blog!

At the end of last year, I went to the WB Studio Tour in London with C. I of course made my own skirt for the occasion, and was appropriately dressed in proud Hufflepuff colours!

We went to the Studio in December, when Hogwarts was all snowy, and the Great Hall was decorated with Christmas trees, and the Yule Ball was going on.

I particularly enjoyed seeing all of the costumes. They had all the gowns on display, and Hermione’s beautiful lavender dress is breathtaking.

I love that this picture makes Mad Eye Moody look tiny, with his costume being next to Hagrid and in the background 😀 He also has a green leg.

As well as the Yule Ball gowns they had the uniforms for Beauxbatons Academy of Magic and I need to recreate this outfit! I loved that they had the pattern and the muslin as well as the finished dress, as it shows how much thought and detail went into the design of the costumes.

While Umbridge was a terrible person and horrible character, I must admit that her clothes are actually very cute, and I would not be opposed to having her office!

C and I also got the enjoy a glass of butterbeer! I’m a happy witch!

After we were done with our butterbeers and buying our books for the new school year, it was time for us to go back home to get our trunks ready for the Hogwarts Express!

I was always much more of a fan of the books than of the films, but I loved seeing the behind the scenes, and all the creativity and hard work that came into creating the films!

Have you been to the WB Studio Tour?

Hope you enjoyed this little witch’s adventure!